New Materials: Atelier Interactive Acrylics, Part 1

March 1st, 2012

Having tried working watercolor on canvas gessoed for acrylic use and on unstretched Fredrix pad canvas, I decided to try one of Fredrix prestretched watercolor canvases (sold specifically for use with watercolor paint). …I won’t keep you dangling; I was no happier with that canvas than I had been with the other two options. Although it didn’t shrink as the unstretched canvas sheets had, it is somewhat lighter weight than what is sold for oil or acrylic use. And I still experienced a problem with the paint’s lifting as I applied glazes.

Rather than discard the failed painting, I determined to rework the canvas using a relatively new product that had come to my attention and that I thought was worth investigating—Atelier Interactive Acrylics, by Chroma.

What, you may ask, is a watercolorist doing using acrylics? I will admit that I have used acrylics in the past but was discouraged because they dried so quickly in Southwest Florida’s low humidity. I much preferred working with watercolors, with which I can control the fluidity and rehydrate paint that has dried in my palette. Atelier Interactive Acrylic, however, can be rewetted when it becomes tacky—or even dry—on either the palette or the canvas. I thought that this might be a solution to my problem.

I had ordered an introductory set, which includes a good range of preselected paint colors, three different additives for various purposes, an empty spray bottle for distilled water (to “unlock” the drying paint), and a DVD that offers tips on composition, perspective, values, and color (though no explanation of how to use the additives, which are roughly explained on printed inserts). The set also includes an informative color chart for the line that lists, among other things, the pigments used in each—very helpful for making informed selections.

Washing the watercolors off the canvas under running water left enough stain to act as a guiding sketch. My subject had been a repeat of the one I used in “Anticipation,” composed slightly differently on the larger ground. I set up my palette, chose a few appropriate brushes, and roughly laid in the background and foreground colors. Then I tackled the clustered figures, blocking in the larger areas of color and gradually refining them. I didn’t use any of the additives.

120104 Anticipation 2

In the process of painting, of course, the Interactive paint, which I had applied quite wet and fluid, watercolor style, began to dry. Following directions, I sprayed the drying paint on both the canvas and the palette and continued working. The paint did indeed become workable again, and I was able to blend with previously laid color rather than simply over-painting in layers, as I would normally have had to do with a standard acrylic.

Being thin, the rewetted paint did have a tendency to lift more than I would have preferred, as I moved it around on the canvas, but that was due more to the thin initial washes, which I was going back into to rework, than to a fault of either the paint or canvas itself.

I liked the result, and yes, I will use these acrylics again. Maybe I’ll try a thicker application next time—more like oils—and see how that works. Stay tuned.

New Materials: Workable Fixatif

February 15th, 2012

As I have written about in my last few entries, painting with watercolor on canvas has been a crash course at the School of Oops. I’ll continue here with notes about my work on the pad canvas.

Despite my decision to use the pad canvas only after affixing individual sheets to stretcher bars, I decided to try it stretched only with clips. Firmly clamped to a backing board, my second sheet of canvas held its shape well and appeared to lose little area due to shrinkage.

Anticipation

In placing the subject, I mentally included the margin space on all sides to allow for later stretching and shrinkage. (Refer to the Faces and Figures gallery to see the finished proportions of “Anticipation.”)

When I applied glazes on this type of canvas surface, I found that lifting was still almost as much of a problem as it had been on the stretched and gessoed canvas (Joe Miller’s brand) I had used previously (see blog for January 1, 2012). So, when I decided I needed a final glaze to warm the foreground, I set the painting aside for several days to dry thoroughly (front and back) before spraying it with fixatif. Only when that was dry did I lay in my last applications of paint.

I had not used this type of fixatif before (Krylon Workable Fixatif), but it was called “workable” and stated that it “allows easy rework.” However, apparently that holds true only for the stated “pencil, pastel, and chalk,” not for watercolor. The watercolor beaded up on the fixed surface, and though I was able to do a bit of retouching, it was not satisfactory.

Out of desperation, I recoated the painting with the varnish (Krylon Gallery Series UV Archival varnish) I had used on my first canvas, hoping that that would provide a more friendly working surface that would accept top coats of watercolor. The paint continued to bead up, failing to adhere smoothly to the surface.

One of the few advantages of the seal appears to be that I can wipe off failed attempts without fear of leaving stains and smears behind.

Another advantage (admittedly a major consideration) is the UV protection it offers for any paintings that will not be shielded by UV-protective glass.

I would be interested to hear from others who may have found alternative fixatifs or sealers over which additional layers of watercolor can satisfactorily be applied.

Canvassing the Possibilities, part 2

February 1st, 2012

In my quest to familiarize myself with alternative watercolor surfaces for my work, I bought a pad of cotton watercolor canvas (Fredrix brand) to try. As I unwrapped the heavy pad, the weight of the sheets pulled the entire pad away from their backing board. The adhesive strip along the top was not strong enough to support the weight of the mass of canvas.

However, I decided to try using it as I would a pad of watercolor paper, as I supposed was intended. Using bulldog clips, I fastened the canvas pad back against the backing board, set it up on my easel, and got to work. After wetting, the canvas didn’t stretch but actually shrank. Where the canvas was clipped to the board, shrinkage was negligible, but areas that I had failed to clip shrank enough to form noticeable ripples in the fabric as it pulled diagonally against the clips. Having worked primarily with paper and stretched canvas in the past, I had not expected this to occur to such an extent.

In this case, to encourage more even shrinkage, before applying fixative, I reversed the canvas and, leaving it entirely unstretched, I sprayed the back with water, spreading the moisture with my hands to ensure even coverage. Then I allowed it to dry thoroughly. Most of the ripples disappeared as the canvas dried. Overall, the 20”x16” canvas lost approximately ½” in length (in width as seen in the horizontal orientation below) and ¼” in width (or in height as shown in the illustration).

Grasslands

Lessons learned: 1) Use the sheets singly, rather than on the provided pad, and 2) Stretch even page-like sheets of canvas before painting—it’s shrinkable cotton fabric, not paper. Whether on stretcher bars or by affixing the canvas to a sturdy backing, the canvas must be stretched before wetting. I will use 12”x16” stretcher bars for the remaining sheets, to allow enough edge to wrap around the bars.

More about my experience with the canvas next time.

New Materials: Spray Varnish

January 15th, 2012

After completing a small-format painting for a friend, and that I was afraid might be exposed to a problematic atmosphere, I decided to seal the surface with varnish to protect it.

111201 Pam's Pair

The spray varnish (Krylon Gallery Series UV Archival varnish) I had used successfully on canvas did not work so well on paper, leaving white flecks where I had expected a clear, even finish.

Rechecking the canvas I had sprayed previously, to see if I had overlooked a similar problem with that, I found white filaments, about 1/32” long, scattered across the surface of the canvas. But were they from the spray or from some other source? They did not look like the flecks left on the paper, and I was able to brush them off with no difficulty, which I was not able to do with the flecks on the paper surface, so I judged that they were not from the spray. More likely they were some form of dust, though I couldn’t figure out what would have produced the regular, elongated shape of those flecks. It continues to baffle me. But that issue is beyond the realm of this blog.

Although I was fairly certain that the new painting (the one on paper) had been completely dry, I supposed that it was possible that it had not been and that, as the varnish hit it, some of the color lifted off. But I couldn’t be sure. Or perhaps I had applied my second coat too soon after the initial misting. Whatever the cause, the damage was done.

I allowed the varnish to dry completely on the paper before attempting to retouch that painting by applying a top coat. Would it adhere? Or would the varnish reject it? I could find out only by trying.

Once the varnish had dried, I was able to apply a top coat of paint. Despite my fears, it did adhere, and it did improve the appearance of the painting. I was also able to tweak a few areas that I had overlooked previously. However, I did not feel that it brought the image quality back to what it had been before it was sprayed (see below). And I did not attempt to reapply the protective varnish over the final layer of paint.

111201b Pam's Pair

In the future, I won’t be varnishing any more paintings on paper unless there’s an overriding reason to do so.

Canvassing the Possibilities, Part 1

January 1st, 2012

My first experience using watercolor on canvas was an eye opener. The canvas had been primed for use with acrylics, which meant that it was not absorbent, as watercolor paper is. The paint didn’t behave quite the same; it moved much as I expected it to … until I tried to layer it (glazing one pigment over another layer of dried paint). Because it had not adhered to the painting surface as it would have to a paper base, the initial coat lifted when I brushed a second coat over it.

111008 Ecstacy

This discovery told me two things: first, that the painting was “erasable;” and second, that all colors to be applied had to be mixed either on the palette or while still wet on the painting surface. The entire work had to be more carefully planned than usual. Value contrasts would have to be optimal from the beginning, not relying on second coats to adjust color or value except to entirely lift all color out of an area.

I took advantage of the erasability by reworking the background, which had appeared streaky after the initial application. In fact, I reworked the background several times to test the effect of a variety of brushes on the surface and to evaluate several different background treatments. I also signed the painting in three different ways, erasing the dark-against-light versions and eventually lifting the lettering out of dark-pigmented area on my final version.

The erasability posed an additional problem—that of permanence. If the surface should become wet, the image could be ruined. This is true of any watercolor painting, which is one reason works on paper are usually displayed behind glass. One advantage of canvas, however, is that it does not normally need glass for protection, since it’s considerably sturdier than paper. In fact, canvas often does better without glass, since an enclosed framework can trap dampness in as well as keeping dust and moisture out, thereby promoting the growth of mildew.

So, in lieu of glass, when the painting was finished to my liking, I coated it with three layers of UV-protective, archival spray varnish to protect the surface from water and UV damage.

In the near future I expect to be experimenting with canvas primed specifically for watercolor use, and possibly watercolor-specific primers on standard canvas, to evaluate whether there might be better canvas alternatives more compatible with my painting approach.

I would welcome comments and suggestions from any of my readers who have already explored and found answers to these issues.