Archive for the ‘The School of Oops’ Category

New Materials: Spray Varnish

Sunday, January 15th, 2012

After completing a small-format painting for a friend, and that I was afraid might be exposed to a problematic atmosphere, I decided to seal the surface with varnish to protect it.

111201 Pam's Pair

The spray varnish (Krylon Gallery Series UV Archival varnish) I had used successfully on canvas did not work so well on paper, leaving white flecks where I had expected a clear, even finish.

Rechecking the canvas I had sprayed previously, to see if I had overlooked a similar problem with that, I found white filaments, about 1/32” long, scattered across the surface of the canvas. But were they from the spray or from some other source? They did not look like the flecks left on the paper, and I was able to brush them off with no difficulty, which I was not able to do with the flecks on the paper surface, so I judged that they were not from the spray. More likely they were some form of dust, though I couldn’t figure out what would have produced the regular, elongated shape of those flecks. It continues to baffle me. But that issue is beyond the realm of this blog.

Although I was fairly certain that the new painting (the one on paper) had been completely dry, I supposed that it was possible that it had not been and that, as the varnish hit it, some of the color lifted off. But I couldn’t be sure. Or perhaps I had applied my second coat too soon after the initial misting. Whatever the cause, the damage was done.

I allowed the varnish to dry completely on the paper before attempting to retouch that painting by applying a top coat. Would it adhere? Or would the varnish reject it? I could find out only by trying.

Once the varnish had dried, I was able to apply a top coat of paint. Despite my fears, it did adhere, and it did improve the appearance of the painting. I was also able to tweak a few areas that I had overlooked previously. However, I did not feel that it brought the image quality back to what it had been before it was sprayed (see below). And I did not attempt to reapply the protective varnish over the final layer of paint.

111201b Pam's Pair

In the future, I won’t be varnishing any more paintings on paper unless there’s an overriding reason to do so.

Canvassing the Possibilities, Part 1

Sunday, January 1st, 2012

My first experience using watercolor on canvas was an eye opener. The canvas had been primed for use with acrylics, which meant that it was not absorbent, as watercolor paper is. The paint didn’t behave quite the same; it moved much as I expected it to … until I tried to layer it (glazing one pigment over another layer of dried paint). Because it had not adhered to the painting surface as it would have to a paper base, the initial coat lifted when I brushed a second coat over it.

111008 Ecstacy

This discovery told me two things: first, that the painting was “erasable;” and second, that all colors to be applied had to be mixed either on the palette or while still wet on the painting surface. The entire work had to be more carefully planned than usual. Value contrasts would have to be optimal from the beginning, not relying on second coats to adjust color or value except to entirely lift all color out of an area.

I took advantage of the erasability by reworking the background, which had appeared streaky after the initial application. In fact, I reworked the background several times to test the effect of a variety of brushes on the surface and to evaluate several different background treatments. I also signed the painting in three different ways, erasing the dark-against-light versions and eventually lifting the lettering out of dark-pigmented area on my final version.

The erasability posed an additional problem—that of permanence. If the surface should become wet, the image could be ruined. This is true of any watercolor painting, which is one reason works on paper are usually displayed behind glass. One advantage of canvas, however, is that it does not normally need glass for protection, since it’s considerably sturdier than paper. In fact, canvas often does better without glass, since an enclosed framework can trap dampness in as well as keeping dust and moisture out, thereby promoting the growth of mildew.

So, in lieu of glass, when the painting was finished to my liking, I coated it with three layers of UV-protective, archival spray varnish to protect the surface from water and UV damage.

In the near future I expect to be experimenting with canvas primed specifically for watercolor use, and possibly watercolor-specific primers on standard canvas, to evaluate whether there might be better canvas alternatives more compatible with my painting approach.

I would welcome comments and suggestions from any of my readers who have already explored and found answers to these issues.

Taking a workshop

Thursday, December 1st, 2011

When it comes to painting watercolors, there’s always something more to learn. In order to learn some new techniques, I decided to take a week-long workshop this fall with an artist whose work I have admired for many years.

It’s difficult to break away from long-established habits to try a different approach to a recurring problem—the problem, in this case, being how to most effectively portray a given subject. As an artist, my approach to solving that problem produces a typical appearance, a “look,” my style. My eyes have grown so accustomed to that trademark look that it requires considerable effort to critique my own work objectively. But I knew that another experienced painter or painting instructor could call attention to areas in which my work could be strengthened and improved.

Similarly, artists may become overly critical of their own work, particularly in areas that differentiate it from other artists’ styles because it is “different.” We often forget that those differences may actually be strengths, contributing to the beauty and uniqueness of our work. Once again, another experienced artist may be able to offer the encouragement we need to continue building in the direction in which we’ve already begun.

The danger, of course, in taking a workshop with an established and admired artist is that we can sacrifice our own style and, either consciously or unconsciously, adopt something of the instructor’s style. It proves difficult to incorporate the information, techniques, and guidance we’re given without sublimating our uniqueness to the newer influences. So my challenge was to glean what I could from this workshop, absorb the enthusiasm prevalent in the group, listen with discernment to commentary and critiques, and then apply it judiciously and appropriately to my own work, in my own style.

As I worked in class, with the same equipment and supplies I use almost daily in the studio, I felt like someone painting with the wrong hand, and the results looked like it. My colors appeared muddy, and the brushwork looked like a beginner’s. I knew better! Yet this occurred because I was trying an approach that was uncomfortable to me. My mind wasn’t used to thinking in those terms, and my hand hadn’t yet been trained to comply with what it was being told to do.

Late in the week I learned that something as simple as a change of equipment can make a difference. I set aside my favorite round brushes and borrowed one of my husband’s angled household trim brushes—heftier and more awkward than a watercolor “flat” brush. It didn’t solve all my difficulties, of course, since it introduced its own new set of problems, but it broke me out of my rut. Suddenly expectations weren’t involved. I didn’t know what this brush could do with watercolor, or whether it would work at all. Watercolor paint was as foreign to this brush as the brush itself was to me. The size was wrong—both length and width. The bristle composition was wrong–nylon filaments rather than natural hair. But because I had no expectation of what it should be able to do, its “wrongness” didn’t frustrate me. It gave me permission to play, to experiment, and to have fun with it to see what it could do.

I won’t continue to use that borrowed brush for watercolor. Nor will I use all the techniques I learned during the workshop. But I have decided to buy a more appropriate flat watercolor brush. And I have already begun applying some of the techniques I learned at the workshop. I can also evaluate my work in a new light.

That’s really what a workshop is all about—breaking out of our ruts to discover what else might be possible beyond the tried and true.

Staying Out of the Mud

Tuesday, March 1st, 2011

One of the banes of novice watercolorists is that old bugaboo “mud.” It took me a long time to realize what caused mud to develop both on my palette and in my paintings. Part of it, I knew, came from overworking the paint, combining too many colors to create the hue I wanted. Yet I wasn’t sure how many blended colors equaled too many.

I began working on the theory that cool-slanted colors shouldn’t be mixed with warm-slanted colors. But that theory didn’t prove true in every case. At last I realized that when opaque or semi-opaque pigments were mixed with transparent ones, the transparency was sacrificed, and the result became a muddied concoction.

The question then became, “How can I tell which pigments are transparent enough to work well with my palette, and which will I need to be careful using?” I eventually found the answer to that in the color charts most paint manufacturers provide. One of the paints that had been a staple for me from the beginning was yellow ochre, which I discovered was considered either opaque or semi-opaque (depending on the manufacturer). That pigment proved to have been the culprit in many of my muddy blends. Another popular color that caused problems for me was cerulean blue, which is often actually a mixture containing white, and is also semi-opaque.

I still use opaque colors, but with considerably more discretion than before.

There is definitely a place for opaque and semi-opaque pigments in watercolor work. And there simply seems to be little option for some hues. But I’ve learned that it’s usually more effective to use the opaque pigments in the base layer of a glazed painting or for detail on the top layer, rather than to blend on the palette with transparent paints for a widespread wash over the paper.

Unless you understand the components of the paint you use, it’s difficult to know what to expect of it. When a single-pigment paint is available for a certain hue, I try to use that rather than a blended version so it is easier to predict how it will react with other paints, how transparent it will be, and how stable the hue will remain over time.

Most paint manufacturers provide a chart that reveals most of this information for their own paints. To see comprehensive comparison charts, including transparency, opacity, and permanence of a wide range of colors and manufacturers, I’d recommend that you refer to Hilary Page’s book Guide to Watercolor Paints. Because the information changes continually, the author also provides free updated information online at www.Hilary Page.com.

If you like this discussion of paints, you might also be interested in reading “A Palette to My Taste” (December 1, 2010) and “A Limited Palette” and “Selecting Paints” (both to appear later this year).

Reworking erroneous alterations

Friday, October 15th, 2010

When a painting is “finished” enough to be given a title and inventory number, it may not have really been completed at all. I often have second … and third … and fourth … and even more … thoughts about a painting long after it has been set aside as complete. Usually, any subsequent changes I make are based on careful evaluation and are judiciously executed. Occasionally, however, I come to regret my alterations.

090105 Fritzie in Profile, version 1

In this early example of my work, the original painting (#090105) of a grey schnauzer, Fritzie, was largely pastel toned. I went against my better judgment and darkened the background to a mid-tone to comply with someone else’s suggestion. Although the dog’s white eyebrows show up better against the contrasting background, the painting lost its luminosity with the loss of the light background. The dog’s coat looks duller, and the painting as a whole appears flatter.

090105 Fritzie in Profile, version 2

My main problem with this painting was that I didn’t trust my own style and interpretation of the subject. Instead, in changing it, it lost its magic. To punch up the color, I would have done better to darken and enrich the colors in the dog’s coat rather than changing the background.

I decided that the overall appearance could be improved by increasing the contrast. I began by darkening the background even further, beyond its current mid-tone.

090105 Fritzie in Profile, version 3

I also increased the color in the dog, darkening the collar, eyes, nose, and interior of the ear, adding some gamboges (yellow) to areas of the coat, and introducing some of the background hues into the beard. The darker background colors seemed too intense for the gray dog, so I mottled them with sprays of water, which moderated the values and added texture.

Alterations aren’t always beneficial. Whenever I realize I’ve goofed big-time, my options are to (1) leave it as it is, cut my losses, and start over from scratch or (2) keep tweaking it to try to salvage what I can. Did the alterations I made succeed? For what I was attempting to do—return focus to the dog and increase contrast in the picture—I feel that my efforts succeeded fairly well. On the other hand, no changes I make at this point will reclaim the luminosity of the original version that I spoiled by fiddling with the background in the first place.