Archive for the ‘My way of doing it’ Category

What Is “Painterly”?

Tuesday, May 15th, 2012

What does it mean to have a “painterly” style? I have heard many definitions of the term “painterly,” but perhaps the best explanation I have yet come across is that a painterly approach incorporates visual and tactile qualities of the paint (or other medium) used in producing the artwork, such as evidence of brushwork, swirled or partially blended colors, or physical (as opposed to purely optical) texture.

120404 Red Hibiscus

As shown in “Red Hibiscus” (#120404 ), subject elements and spatial planes are usually differentiated primarily through changes in hue, value, and saturation (chroma) rather than by drawn lines—although line may be incorporated—and some or all edges may be indistinct or entirely lost.

This approach is in contrast with more precisely rendered images in which all evidence of brushwork and blending are hidden or minimized. Unlike the photorealistic approach, a painterly piece takes advantage of the unique qualities and expressiveness of the medium itself to help convey what the artist wants to say through the work.

Stopping to Smell the Roses

Tuesday, May 1st, 2012

This spring I have been doing a series of exercises to improve my painting skills. A number of these have required thicker and more opaque paints than watercolors provide, so, as you may have guessed from my recent blogs, I’ve been using a lot of acrylics.

120401 Gramma's Roses

However, I periodically I need to “stop and smell the roses” by returning to my favorite medium. This time I did so by trying to apply many of the lessons that I’ve been studying to see if I’ve really learned them well enough to translate the principles into watercolor work.

Composition principles, control of values and saturation levels, use of complementary hues and their resulting gray tones, use of temperature in modeling forms, and even a renewed confidence in drawing all came into play in “Gramma’s Roses” (#120401), shown above.

I’ll always continue to strive for improvement, and in the process, … I’m having fun.

New Materials: Absorbent Ground

Sunday, April 15th, 2012

If you have been following my blogs this year, you know that I have been looking for a satisfactory way to apply watercolor to canvas. Among other things, I found that gessoed canvas does not satisfactorily hold watercolor well enough to permit layering—called glazing—an important technique when using transparent watercolors. But then I came across an alternative surfacing material, similar to gesso, that claims to hold the color better—Golden’s Absorbent Ground, in matte white.

Directions indicate that multiple coats increase absorbency, so I decided to prepare a canvas panel sectioned roughly into thirds, which I would give one, two, and three coats, respectively, of the absorbent ground to test for my own edification.

I began by coating a 16”x20” pre-gessoed canvas panel with a single coat of the ground. I dipped my brush into water before applying the ground to make it easier to spread, but otherwise did not thin it. After it had dried for several hours, I taped off the left third and coated the remainder with a second coat, which I permitted to dry overnight before applying a third coat to farthest right third. The three sections were separated with pencil lines for easier identification.

absorbent-ground-test

After the third coat was dry, I applied separate washes of two watercolor paints, Winsor blue, red shade (phthalocyanine blue RS, aka PB15) and burnt sienna (a synthetic iron oxide red, PR101) across all three portions of the panel. Both paints have a staining quality, which is preferable for glazing purposes. Near the top of each, I lifted out swaths through both color blocks while they were still wet, both with a dry paper towel and with a damp brush. Once the base color had dried, I applied separate glazes of both colors over each of the color blocks. Finally, I again lifted a swath from the bottom of each dried color block with a damp brush. (The illustration above shows the finished test panel.)

The following day, the effect of the absorbent ground became considerably more apparent when I ran water over the entire panel and scrubbed it with a gentle brush. Most of the color washed off, but the absorbent ground had been stained to some extent by both base coats. The more layers of ground I had used, the more stain remained, as shown below.

absorbent-ground-washed

Conclusions: Does the absorbent ground improve paint retention? Yes!
Does the number of coats make a difference? With each successive layer of ground, the paint lifted less readily, although within a couple hours after painting, with a bit more effort and a damp brush, paint could be lifted out from even the triple application. After the paint had dried overnight, however, both paints had stained the ground and become more difficult to lift. It appears that the ground continues to absorb the stain until both the paint and the underlying ground have thoroughly dried (the ground having been remoistened by the application of wet paint). The more coats of ground there are, the longer they take to thoroughly dry, hence the more stain they absorb.

Recommendations: If glazing is to be used on (pre-gessoed) canvas, I would recommend, first, applying a minimum of three coats of the absorbent ground before beginning a painting and, second, leaving the base coat of paint to dry overnight or longer before applying subsequent glazes.

Additional notes: According to directions, “Due to the fragile, absorbent quality of the ground, finished paintings need to be protected.” Whether this protection must be in the form of glass or the equivalent or whether a spray varnish will suffice is not specified. Since my primary reason for using canvas instead of paper is to leave an exposed surface, my own inclination would be to opt for some kind of protective varnish or sealer rather than a glass or acrylic cover sheet. Such a solution might or might not be adequate—only experience will tell.

Reevaluating the Palette

Thursday, December 15th, 2011

I’ve found that it’s a good idea to periodically review the paints in my palette. Not only do I consider which ones I’ve made good use of and which I haven’t, but I also find it helpful to update my charts that show how they interact with one another. While doing that this fall, I made some discoveries that will help in my paint choices for the coming year. Among other things, I have found that there are several paints that could be dispensed with or be replaced with a more satisfactory alternative.

Palette, December 2011

Of my five yellows, I found that three are very similar in color but behave differently in use. The yellow ochre, a semi-opaque that tends to muddy my mixes, will not be replenished when it runs out. The similar raw sienna is more transparent and poses less of a mixing problem. It provides a more subtle and slightly warmer underwash than the third similar color, quinacridone gold, which is stronger and more lively for mixing with other colors. New gamboge is also a rich, warm, more intense yellow that is good for mixing. And the bright, cooler Winsor lemon is needed for the lightest, clearest yellows applied over reserved white.

In the brown realm, burnt sienna is my standby, supplemented by burnt umber for my darkest darks (often mixed with indigo) and the more red-toned brown madder, which I also love to pair with indigo. I’ve tried sepia but found that that’s another color I can dispense with.

It has perhaps been a mistake to rely too heavily on the transparent reds—permanent alizarin crimson and permanent rose, more recently supplemented with the lovely quinacridone red and quinacridone magenta. Being transparent, these are fine colors for mixing, but I find the quin red a bit wimpy on its own. I need a good rich red to punch up a painting. A transparent scarlet lake is a new acquisition that I hope will fill the bill. It has a warmer cast than the cooler reds I’ve been using.

Though I have a purple (Winsor violet), I seldom use it, usually preferring to mix my own from the colors used elsewhere in the painting. This helps to maintain a sense of color unity throughout, rather than introducing an unrelated hue.

Of my blues and greens, Payne’s grey (which I consider a very muted blue) is my least used. Cerulean, being opaque, doesn’t blend well with most other paints (though permanent rose transforms it to the startling and lovely hue my father used to call “sky-blue pink.”) Cerulean is fine as a sky color but is largely limited to that use. And I find that the hue is very similar to that of Winsor blue (green shade), which is more amenable for mixing. French ultramarine blue and cobalt blue, on the other hand, are both workhorses and must-haves, as they are both useful for skies, water, shadows, and blending with other colors. The muted indigo (a premixed blue blend that can be subtle despite its powerful pigments) has become a personal favorite and almost indispensable to me. A new acquisition is Manganese Blue Nova, a Holbein paint, which creates a lovely range of greens when mixed in varying proportions with quinacridone gold. Though I haven’t used them as extensively, I enjoy the liveliness and mixability of my Winsor blue (green shade) and Winsor green (blue shade), from which I can achieve a good range of aquas and turquoises when blended together. Their transparency seems to lend them both to successful mixing with other colors. Permanent sap green has become another of my workhorses, as it is a good supplement to palette-mixed greens and is, in itself, easy to vary for great foliage.

I like the clarity and vibrancy of the transparent colors, particularly the quinacridones. And I’m less concerned now than I used to be about whether a pigment stains or can be lifted off the paper. So, as you see, as my tastes and needs change over time, I expect my palette selections will continue to change as well, both adapting to and contributing to the evolution of my work.

“So, what’s it to you?”

Saturday, October 15th, 2011

It’s fun sometimes to take a good, close look at an everyday object to see beauties we don’t normally take time to appreciate. An open mind, a fresh way of looking at things – these keep me alert and keep the world interesting. How can we get bored when there’s a new discovery to make simply through closer study of what we think we already know?

110805 Eye of the Moon

One day I picked up a moon shell, at first glance round and gray, rather undistinguished and dull. But a closer look drew me into its vortex. There I discovered colors and textures and understated line that cried out to me to paint them.

In trying to categorize my finished painting, “Eye of the Moon” (#110805), no established category seemed to fit. What was it? A still-life? An animal? An abstract? But then, … does the category even matter? It is what it is, and that is open to the viewer’s interpretation. So I’m calling it an abstract, though it is actually merely a loosely rendered depiction of an actual form.

The question is less “What is it?” than “What is it to you?” And that’s part of what art is about – allowing our eyes to see the unexpected and our minds to read the unexpected into what we see.